Perfect Wave

It’s early in the morning
I’m paddling out through the cold, clear water
Watching set after set of clean lines pass through
With my board underneath me
I make it out the back
Oldies on long boards, kids with their dads and me
I wait and see the perfect wave
I start paddling and feel my board take me down the front of the wave
As I descend the wave
I feel my rail gripping
I know it won’t fail me
It never does
My rail holds as the wave barrels over me
I clear the wave as I to spin my board slide over the wave
90, 180, 270, 360
I finish my spin
And glide into the beach
I’m coming back tomorrow