a great feeling

The waves are crashing
Along the beach and cold crystal sand
Is upon my feet.

I walk to the ocean,
Amazed and in awe at just
How loud the ocean can raw.

I untie my leg rope, ready to go out.
I'm gonna have a great surf
Without a doubt.

My heart is pounding
In my chest
As I see the ocean rest.

I take my chance and paddle out,
Duck-diving waves
Til I get out the back.

I sit up on my board,
As I see as set wave
Coming at me with a mean ugly face.

I paddle for the wave,
Quickly popping up
Getting a great feeling that I'm in luck.