Me

As I glide down the barrel

I feel the drops of water running down my face,

I taste the salt in my mouth,

I see the end of the barrel as I fall down the wave.

I make it out alive,

I see people sitting on their surfboards in the deep clear ocean,

I see people sitting on the sand and eating lunch-sacks.

I feel a school of fish bolt past my leg,

a fish no bigger than an apple, but there are so many

they look like a surfboard.

I see a fin pop out of the water,

I feel like it's a shark, so I go sit on the sand.

As I walk out of the bubbling, cold water,

I feel sand stick to my feet and wetsuit.

For me... Middleton beach is my happy place.