Security of the Waves

The waves came, pushing me from behind.
I felt the calm that overtakes me every time.
I relaxed, into the security of the waves.

I jumped, rising from the firm board.
I lost my balance and felt the sensation of falling.
I let the water take me.
It wrapped me up and held me tight,
Protecting me in the security of the waves.

I was released.
I rose, being nudged to the top.
Gasping, I grasped the air and pulled it in, 
Holding it and releasing slowly.
It soothed my lungs.
I accepted the gift gratefully.
I had left the security of the waves.

I floated back to my board,
Letting myself be sucked back out.
I was prepared to repeat the process,
To return to the security of the waves.